St. Augustine

As a boy growing up in pre-World War II suburbs north of New York City, my impression of European settlements in the New World had it that most of the action took place along the Atlantic coast, between today's Virginia and Massachusetts, and involved only English settlers. I can't recall if Spanish settlements were ever mentioned, although there was some talk of Spanish explorers trekking across what would become our southern states. We lived, after all, in New England, where Spanish culture and history were essentially limited to, on one day a year, making mention that Columbus' voyage of accidental discovery was financed by a Spanish monarch.
When, around 1936, my traveling dad returned from a business trip to Florida, he brought with him hand-colored postcards of St. Augustine and surprised us by saying that it was our nation's oldest city. When I subsequently learned that the Spaniards had established St. Augustine 20 years before even the earliest attempts at a British settlement, I became incurably interested in learning more about that place and its history and have now visited there more times than any other place in Florida.
St. Augustine is indeed Florida's most historic city, but it is not, as many today still believe, "the nation's oldest city." The explanation is rather simple, and yet important to a full appreciation for the city's prominent place in history. There were, if we take time to think about it, much earlier settlements, cities of sorts, of the mostly Native American peoples we refer to as "Indians." And there also were earlier European settlements in Florida (such as that at Fort Caroline, near today's Jacksonville). The French had been at Fort Caroline for about a year when the Spanish arrived at St. Augustine (in 1565). The Spaniards quickly marched north, through dense, hostile swamps, and wiped out little Fort Caroline, and St. Augustine thus became the oldest, continuously occupied European settlement in what would become the United States of America.
My first visit to St. Augustine was in 1985. I have returned many times since in the process of producing travel-related articles. I go back periodically to update my reference files and photography, and because it is simply a most enjoyable place to be, at just about any time of the year.
Over time nearly all human habitations change, often dramatically. The biggest change I recently found, is the traffic which seems to have exploded over the past decade causing vexing problems for visitors and residents alike. If you arrive by automobile as I did you may wonder if you should be there at all. Old, narrow streets, constant repairs and construction and routinely heavy tourist traffic make driving a less-than-pleasant experience - especially if you are alone and thus without a navigator. Even though I had two different, operative GPS devices, neither one could manage to direct me to the long-established B&B where I was to stay. And stopping to get directions is a frustrating challenge in itself, because even the costly metered spots (which seem to line just about every street except one where vehicular traffic is prohibited) are seemingly all taken. I finally, and thankfully, turned desperately into a dirt lot behind a restaurant, where I went to seek help. They very kindly explained that my B&B was just across the street, but to get there I'd have to drive a possibly confusing route through the old town. Once I arrived at the B&B, I found that its parking area was a couple of blocks away, which is not convenient for a travel writer with a dozen bags of computers, cameras and personal items.
However, once one gets established, the charm of the old city seems to make it all worthwhile. In addition to the lingering presence of history, St. Augustine offers its visitors great dining; a fascinating variety of museums; guided tours combined with a sort of public transportation (horse-drawn carriages, sightseeing trains and trolleys with regular routes); tempting chocolates; exciting shopping; interesting arts; nearby beaches; outstanding regional and seasonal attractions; welcoming weather; great golf and romantic B&Bs.
Sadly and tragically, much of the city's irreplaceable physical history was lost by two great fires and by opportunistic commercial development (especially Henry M. Flagler) during which many old buildings were bulldozed while creating an envisioned "America's Riviera." In spite of that generally careless loss, St. Augustine survives as one of the nation's more significant historic sites. Monumental, looming Castillo de San Marcos was spared, and today anchors the city. That 17th century fort was built of resilient coquina (a natural stone created by compression of tiny sea creatures over centuries) which allowed it to absorb the impact of cannon balls without cracking, as did brick and granite forts of that time. It stands today as the oldest masonry fort in the nation. Period cannon are fired from its ramparts, while authentically costumed re-enactors are usually present to answer visitors' questions, and to entrance wide-eyed children.
A partially reconstructed defensive line of dirt, palm logs, and saw-palmetto runs from the fort to the still-standing City Gates, at the head of historic St. George Street, which has been turned into an over-commercialized, pedestrian destination. The "Oldest School House" (only some 200 years old) is located right at the gates and is a favorite site for photos by visitors. A rock's throw up the street you'll find the Colonial Spanish Quarter, where re-enactors recreate life in 1740 St. Augustine. While there, I was pleasantly surprised to be recognized by one of them (Gili Lochner), who was working for the local newspaper when I came there many years ago to do a feature story about the preservation and restoration of the city.
Although the city is seemingly overwhelmed with commercial establishments (offering everything from T-shirts and baseball caps to "adult" toys), a few other historic buildings survive to give interested visitors a rare look into Spanish life in the early days of our nation (e.g., the Oldest House, and the Ximenez-Fatio House, both more than 200 years old). Other major historic attractions include the Fountain of Youth Park, and the Mission of Nombre de Dios, on the site where, it is believed, the first Spaniards set foot when establishing the settlement of St. Augustine.
It's a fact history has seemingly taken a back seat to personal pleasure and enjoyment in St. Augustine. There are many fun-filled, interesting museums, such as Ripley's Believe It or Not, Potter's Wax Museum, or the not-to-be-missed Lightner Museum, which now occupies one of the magnificent hotels built by Flagler. And shopping is big with today's visitors, which can load up on tacky souvenirs, sinful chocolates, antiques, fashionable clothing or art from grand to funky. There are boat tours with either scenic or ecological themes, and, depending on the month, dramatic arts presentations and/or music concerts. When and if you've "done" everything in town (which is hard to do in a single weekend), a quick motor trip will take you to a lovely ocean beach with a picturesque lighthouse; a bit further on and you can be one of the only visitors to an island fort (Matanzas), which guarded approaches to the city from the south; entertain the entire family at the Alligator Farm, which my father photographed some 60 years ago; or perhaps swim with dolphins at the first, and best, oceanarium in the U.S. - the original Marineland.
All that activity sharpens most appetites, and St. Augustine is set to satisfy your hunger, whether it's for hamburgers or the most imaginative continental cuisine prepared by distinguished chefs. The incurably active set can fish or golf on a challenging course with an infamous hole (17th). And when it's time to retire for the night, you have your choice from among posh beach resorts, modern motels, or cozy, classic, romantic B&Bs.
St. Augustine began its tourist life as the product of Mr. Flagler (whose monumental, and artistic, hotels and churches are architectural gems in the city's image). History was once the major draw for tourists; but today the city lures repeat visitors, by offering great weather, a fascinating atmosphere, lots to do, world-class restaurants, and classic B&Bs that'll rekindle even the most flickering love affairs. Go at any time, but GO!

If you go:
WHEN TO GO: Each season brings its own devotees back to the city. There is no bad time to be there. Colorful historic re-enactments are featured in March, April, June and September (see Visitor Bureau's Web site for information: www.Getaway4Florida.com).

GETTING THERE: Although the city is most conveniently located just off I-95, as the saying goes, "You can't get there from here." Direct routes from the Brooksville area are slow and convoluted; the quicker routes are considerably longer, but take about the same time. Best advice: Check your maps/travel programs and make your own plans. Although street parking is difficult and expensive, there are reasonably priced and conveniently located parking lots near the visitor center, where you will be able to board sightseeing trains for an overview of the historic district as well as to save a bit of walking.

WHERE TO STAY: The city is well-known for its historic B&Bs, which are wonderful for a romantic weekend but are not for young children. However, they do sometimes have problems with parking. The Inn on Charlotte (904-829-3819, www.innoncharlotte.com), and the St. Francis Inn (904-824-6068, www.stfrancisinn.com) deserve special mention. There also are motels, such as riverfront Monterey Inn (904-824-4482), that welcome families and have convenient parking. You might also want to stay at the beach, and make the short drive into town - there's a Best Western there (904-461-9900).

WHERE TO EAT: Some of the B&Bs offer wonderful breakfasts, but for lunch or dinner we recommend the immensely popular Columbia (in spite of a sometimes lackluster staff, it has excellent food); the Bistro de Leon (12 Cathedral Place, 904-810-2100), where a clearly talented and imaginative chef provides "casual" French dining (which is a bit noisy for this diner); or there's O.C. White's (118 Avenida Menendez, 904-824-0808), which is this traveler's number one choice for informal dining, featuring scrumptious seafood and great service.

NOT TO MISS: The Castillo, Fountain of Youth, and Nombre de Dios are "must do's."

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Visit www.getaway4florida.com, or call 904-829-1711