On Top Of Stone Mountain

Ask most anyone to name a famous sight in Australia, and they'll likely respond with "Ayers Rock," or the "Sydney Opera House." Curious, isn't it, that so many will suffer the rapidly increasing tortures of international air travel, and spend thousands of shrinking dollars, to see a large rock? It's especially puzzling when one can visit a quite similar, large, monolithic rock, located within a seven-hour drive from Tampa, Florida. And the rock I'm talking about has major features that Ayers doesn't: the largest bas-relief carving in the world, and dozens of added attractions for the whole family.

Georgia's Stone Mountain is located just east of Atlanta's Beltway (I 285). My family moved to Avondale Estates, a new residential area on the eastern edge of Atlanta, in 1932. We could clearly see the 55-story-high, gray, dome-shaped rock from the dirt road in front of our house. At dusk, flames sometimes flickered on top of the bald mountain. I was far too young to realize that the burning crosses were meant to terrorize Negroes, such as our beloved maid, Cornelia. The land around the unusual granite monolith was largely undeveloped; the only activity there was a granite quarry operation, which was gradually reducing the size of the mound. We never went there - almost no one did.

Today, the mountain and the 5-square-mile park around it are Georgia's most popular attraction (4-million visitors each year), and one of the most-visited sites in the entire 50 states.

Unlike Ayers Rock, which is generally just admired and photographed by visitors, Stone Mt. Park offers over a dozen man-made attractions, along with camping, luxurious accommodations, nature trails, and lots of outdoor activities. Many visitors stay for a week or more, and return year after year.

The imposing rock, with its magnificent carving, is the Park's centerpiece. The carving measures 90 by 190 feet, and is recessed 42 feet into the mountain. It shows three heroes of the Civil War: the President of the Confederacy, Jefferson Davis; legendary General Robert E Lee; and his "right arm," General "Stonewall" Jackson. The three are mounted on partially completed horses. Three sculptors worked on the carving between 1915 and 1972; the first of which was Gutzon Borglum, whom quit, in a huff, in 1925, and took all of his drawings and plans with him [Borglum later carved out the presidential figures on Mt. Rushmore]. Borglum had envisioned seven central figures with an army of thousands, but subsequent developments, and limited funds, resulted in the abbreviated version visible today. Abbreviated, it may be, but it is still a wonder: it is so large that a man can stand in one of the horse's mouths. Each night, after it's fully dark, the world's longest running laser show brings the heroic carving to life, amidst thrilling fireworks and stirring patriotic music.

A railroad runs a regular, oval route around the base of the mountain. Years back, when the black engine huffed, puffed and shrieked its steam whistle, the ride was attractive and fun, but the diesel engine, and rather pedestrian passenger cars, now used aren't worth boarding. All one really now sees is evidence of where they once quarried the mountain for granite tombstones. Fugettit!

The Summit Skyride, on the other hand, is well worth the time and ticket. In just a couple of quick minutes, the enclosed cable cars whisk you to the top of the bald mountain. As I strolled that cracked smooth surface, spotted here and there with scraggly pines, I seemed to be able to imagine men in white robes, erecting kerosene-soaked crosses in holes cut in the hard rock. Was I able to see our one-time home, over there to the west? Who'd ever thought that the boy that once lived there, was now here? There's an air-conditioned cable terminal at the top, where a snack bar makes waiting for the next car down a pleasure.

Perhaps the next center of attention for most visitors is the Crossroads area, where restaurants, theaters, attractive shops, and a wide variety of activities are concentrated on quaint streets, from which the famous carving is clearly visible There are, among many others, a 4-D theater (your seats respond appropriately to what one is watching through 3-D glasses). A glass-blowing exhibit is periodically available, with an adjacent sales room which reminded me of Venezia's famous Murano glass. There's a charming little stage, from which a grandmotherly woman spins tales for the kindergarten set. The fabulous, new SkyHike is immensely popular with families, because it is equipped with exciting, safe, athletic challenges for visitors of all ages and capabilities. How about climbing a rock wall, or perhaps walking a beam high above the ground? A visit to the area's Miss Kate's Sideboard Restaurant not only exposes you to real southern fried chicken, but they actually throw warm dinner rolls to happy diners. I missed mine, which landed on the floor.

There's a classic, stern-wheeler riverboat that circulates over the park's tree-ringed lake. While onboard, we enjoyed the sound of the Park's carillon ringing out across the water. There's a WWII amphibious Ducks attraction, where you ride around on land for awhile, then splash into the Park's vast lake for a final cruise. There also are professional golf, tennis, miniature golf, pedal boats, a waterslide complex., and so much more. There's even a post-Civil War village of some 18 vintage buildings, which would be far more interesting if the Park arranged for the then-occupying Union soldiers to be present to speak to visitors, and, especially, to fire an occasional cannon, which would surely attract crowds to this now-deserted, and run-down part of the park.

Stone Mountain has a great deal to offer visitors from Florida. You can spend two or three days, or a week, and enjoy every minute of that time, without spending a fortune in time and money to get there. Go now: you'll be glad that you did!

WHEN YOU GO:

It can be hot and humid in summer: Autumn and Spring are the best bets.

Take I-75 to I-285 south of Atlanta; get off at Hwy 78 east of Atlanta; watch for signs to the Park. Admission to the park is charged by the car ($8); admission to all attractions (except the Ducks) is available for a reasonable daily pass.

The camp grounds are great, and are popular with tenters and mobile homes alike ($23-$38/night); the park provides both a tram-like shuttle and a water taxi between the campgrounds and the major attraction areas. If camping isn't your thing, you can choose between the pricey Evergreen Resort (minimum $200/dbl), or the comfortable, and well-located Stone Mt. Inn ( Tel, 770/469-3311; $139/dbl weekdays). Both are in-park Marriott properties; for further information, check them out at www.marriott.com.

For further information, visit the Park's Web site at www.stonemountainpark.com.