Cult of the corn

Locals brag about it. Snowbirds swear by it. Tourists arrange their travel plans by it.

It's not a swanky resort on the Gulf, and it's not a character-inhabited theme park.

It's corn - corn on the cob.

However, it's not just any old corn. It's Frazier corn and, apparently, that makes all the difference.

Phil and Carol Huntwork, who drove to Brooksville from Homosassa for the freshly harvested ears, showed up bright and early on a Monday morning to ensure they would be among the first customers.

"We came for corn last week," Phil Huntwork said. "But we missed out. The corn was all gone."

When asked why they didn't just buy corn at the local supermarket or even a farmers' market, the couple shook their heads as one.

"We've been coming here for seven years. This is the best corn anywhere," Carol Huntwork said. "You bet it's worth the drive."

David Frazier has been the owner and operator of Frazier Farms in Brooksville since 1990, when his father retired from running the farm. If you ask him how much corn he yields in a season, he thinks for a minute, then laughs and says, "You know, I'd have to get back to you on that."

If you ask him how many acres he farms, he replies, "Enough to keep one man busy."

That man is kept plenty busy during his two corn harvesting seasons in May/June and October. He likes to use a catchphrase to remind people when the corn is in season.

"We're a five-and-ten cornfield," Frazier says. "Fifth month, May, and then again in the tenth month, October."

The memory devices seem unnecessary, according to the numerous devotees who crowd his open-air shed for the privilege of laying out $5 for a dozen plump ears of white, yellow and bicolor corn. For the aficionados of this farm's summertime staple, no drive is too far and no inconvenience is too great.

Earlier this week, more than 50 people stood in line for more than an hour in 85-degree heat, waiting patiently for Frazier to bring the tractor in from the field with his golden treasure. Older patrons leaned on canes, recyclable shopping bags in hand. Mothers with small children chatted with neighbors farther up the line, promising to car pool next corn season.

Rather than complaining about the wait, or becoming disgruntled, there was a calm cheer in the crowd. Strangers from Tarpon Springs and Wisconsin struck up conversations about the economy, traffic and, often, about growing up on a farm and eating fresh produce. Very few people gave up their place in line to leave.

Bob Hanson, a retiree from Boston, drove from Timber Pines in Spring Hill expecting the crowds.

"I don't mind waiting at all," he said. "I don't have golf today and this is the finest corn in Florida."

He added, "Besides, at least we can be sure it's fresh!" Laughing patrons were quick to agree.

While Frazier Farms sells produce and honey from other local farms, it's the corn that keeps customers coming back for more.

"I only grow corn here anymore," Frazier says. "It's easier that way."

Frazier says that he gets people from all over the southeast who want his corn. He had to postpone an order for eight bushels from a customer in Tallahassee because the recent rain has played havoc with his harvesting. While he's obviously pleased that business is so good, he seems slightly taken aback by his customers' enthusiasm.

"People plan their vacations around the corn crop," he says with a laugh. "They ship it all over the country to their friends and relatives."

"People pay $60 to ship $5 worth of corn," he says, shaking his head and smiling. "It's just beyond me."