A Bit Of European Dining On Broad Street

BROOKSVILLE - In a city where the streets still tend to roll up at sundown, the owner and manager of G.M.'s Bistro admit they are taking a leap of faith.

"Somebody had to be crazy enough to do it, and I got nominated," said Jim Tsacrios, owner of the new bistro soon to open at 4 N. Broad St., on the corner of Broad and Main across from the county courthouse.

"No, you nominated yourself," corrected Udi Mekler, the bistro's managing chef, as the two sat in the eatery's front booth recently.

The goal of the leap is to provide fine dining with a "European atmosphere," and an after-dark draw to the downtown area, Tsacrios said.

"It's a beautiful city," Mekler said. "There's got to be something like this."

The eatery will serve breakfast and lunch Monday through Saturday and brunch on Sunday. Dinner will be served Wednesday through Saturday.

Tsacrios and Mekler are awaiting some permits and hope to open within the next two weeks.

On Monday, the city council approved the bistro's request to serve beer and wine and to set up tables on the sidewalk. City code forbids alcohol to be served in the right of way, though, so diners won't be able to drink outside.

There is ample space inside at the marble-top bar, though.

Mekler says he has the experience to bring that European flair. He was born in Israel and studied culinary arts there, but worked under chefs in Italy and France. He's lived in the United States for the last 26 years.

The bistro's menu will feature plenty of fine cheeses and fresh seafood, beef and vegetables. Mekler said nothing will be frozen and that he plans to purchase as many ingredients as possible from local vendors.

Mekler moved to Brooksville last year from Fort Lauderdale with his wife and 6-year-old daughter. He fell in love with the place and was ready to satisfy a hankering to open a restaurant when he came upon Tsacrios renovating the building.

The eatery is on the first floor of the Jennings Building, which was built in 1905 and also houses the Hernando County Housing Authority. The namesake of the eatery is George Maillis, Tsacrios's grandfather, who bought the building in the 1920s.

Tsacrios, a native of Alaska who built oil rigs there for a number of years, now lives in Indian Rocks Beach and has been working on the renovations for nearly a year. Much of the trim came from trees cleared for development in the area, said Tsacrios, who has done interior renovation work on large yachts.

The bistro is long overdue, says Sally Petrie, president of the Brooksville Business Alliance.

It's a place "where ladies can lunch and attorneys can meet with clients," but also a place to "linger" and enjoy downtown after dark, Petrie said.

"I think it's exactly what we need," she said.

Tsacrios and Mekler are, of course, businessmen out to make a profit, but they say they also hope to do their part to stimulate the city's core.

"My grandfather told me you take with one hand and give with the other," Tsacrios said, "so maybe this will work out that way."