Beaches, buses and bistros

the "active" set. In either case, you'll appreciate the relative lack of crowds, which you may, justifiably, associate with beaches in Florida. Because the island is relatively narrow (only about a half-mile across at its widest point), beaches are usually within comfortable walking distance from most guest accommodations, but a free "trolley" (i.e., bus) regularly runs up and down the narrow island, stopping every half-dozen blocks or so, thus expanding a visitor's range of activity, without using a private vehicle. Bicycles, in various configurations (e.g., there's even one to hold the entire family), are readily available for rent.

Thankfully, there are few fast-food joints on the island, but you'll find a wonderful variety of outstanding restaurants-some of the best this traveler has ever experienced. I am not now, nor have I ever attempted to be a food critic nor restaurant reviewer, but the eateries on Anna Maria are so impressive and enjoyable that they deserve special mention in this report. Since breakfast is our first meal of the day, let's look first at a couple of great places to enjoy that time of day. Ginny's & Jane E's Bakery, Cafe, and Store is, in my view, an experience not to be missed. There's just one large room (it was once a cooperative grocery store), which is packed with just about everything except cattle feed and milking machines. Clothing, furniture, lamps, dishes, beachy stuff, and even fresh produce are among the eclectic merchandise through which one winds his way in getting to the rear of the store, where we arrive at what looks like the coffee-shop set, once used in a popular television series. Mostly 30-something regulars sit on a group of overstuffed furniture, while enjoying coffee and pastries served from a sort of delicatessen-store counter, which stretches clear across the rear of the room. Next to them, an internet cafe is busy with the young set checking Facebook or tweeting cyber pals. Six middle-aged locals (they refer to themselves as "islanders") sit around a polished wood dining table, reading newspapers, and discussing local events. All food is prepared in-house; my Crème Brulee French Toast was deliciously, even sinfully, rich, and a new experience for me. As I looked for a place to sit and enjoy it, I was puzzled by what appeared to be an assortment of new-looking tables and chairs, set up amongst displays of other merchandise. A regular, seated at one of those, noticing my confusion, advised me to "Sit anywhere you want." Although all of those tables are for sale (as, according to co-owner Jane E, is "everything in the store"), they are also for use by patrons. The store also offers lunch and dinner items, but I suggest breakfast, with the French toast, or perhaps a delicious quiche.

For a more conventional breakfast, try the Gulf Drive Cafe, which is right at water's edge. Repeat diners sit in a shaded porch, which opens to the sea breeze coming off the Gulf. Efficient and friendly waitresses serve heaping plates of such as fresh fruit, or perfect, eggs benedict, Great!

Restaurants, understandably, like to be located on the beach, or, at the least, with an unobstructed view of the sand and sea. At the classic Sandbar Beach House, for example, you can wiggle your toes in the warm sand while savoring the best blackened grouper sandwich in the state.

The Sun House Restaurant, is across the main drag from the beach, but it's second story setting allows for an uninterrupted view of each evening's spectacular sunset. The cuisine is top-cabin; your enjoyment of the chef's praiseworthy efforts is briefly interrupted by a traditional ceremony signaling the official setting of the orange sun. At that time, diners down small, green, complimentary drinks, and, as a large oriental gong is struck, everyone sings a chorus of "You are my sunshine."

The immensely popular Beach Bistro is also located right on a beach, but diners there sit inside, and watch the sunset through large windows. Although the place is not a typical beach restaurant I saw no sandals, shorts, nor men wearing baseball caps at the table, and most of the women seemed to be attired in classy cocktail dresses, the informally clad waiters (appropriate to the beach atmosphere) were super efficient, and could as well have been in formal attire. For a meal you'll long recall with pleasure, head for the Beach Bistro - and leave the baseball caps at home.

There are three, rather different cities on the island: Anna Maria (at the north end); Holmes Beach (in the middle); and Bradenton Beach (on the south). Bradenton Beach is the more commercial of the trio, with the largest number of seaside clubs, resorts, condos, spas, stores, and snack shops. Holmes beach is a somewhat busy, residential city, where, for example traffic is heavy enough to make bicycle riding a bit risky. Anna Maria is the most laid-back, thinly populated, and expensive part of the island. Thanks to the commendable efforts of local residents, such as Michael Coleman (Pine Ave. Restoration) and Ed Cole, unattractive high-rise, and/or overly-commercial development has been curtailed in the city of Anna Maria. There are thus essentially no places to stay in Anna Maria other than rental houses, which run the gamut from classic, older, one-story bungalows to new, three-story, luxury homes with pools, boat docks, four bedrooms, full kitchens, game rooms, several baths, formal dining and living rooms, garages, and more. If you're rental is a couple of blocks from a beach, the rent may be around $2,000/week (twice that if right on the edge of the Gulf or Bay). Since those houses will comfortably accommodate eight, the cost is very competitive with decent motels or beach clubs, which usually offer far less space, fewer amenities, and reduced convenience.

I am attracted to Anna Maria as a place to completely relax, while soaking up the sand-in-your-toes island atmosphere, enjoying some of the best restaurants in the Southeast, and doing it all right here in our own, wonderful U.S. of A.. But if you simply must do something more active, there are fishing charters, kayak rentals, guided nature tours, and the nearby cities of Bradenton and Sarasota offer a virtual cornucopia of educational, recreational, and entertainment opportunities. For me, a beach chair under a colorful umbrella, on the beach at the very north tip of the island, is the stuff of vacation dreams. And then too, there's dinner at the Beach Bistro later today: this time, I think I'll start with a proper Martini; followed by Nova Scotia Smoked Salmon with caviar and capers; then move on to Butter Poached Lobster with citrus grits; order a Rack of Domestic Lamb for my entree; then top it off with a decadent, Chocolate Truffle Terrine, with a snifter of brandy. I can't wait! It doesn't get any better!