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Andersonville - Up From Infamy

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Published: February 15, 2009

gies of the folks in Andersonville, the historic site has become a major tourist attraction. The Park includes rolling acres of similar gravestones, testifying silently to the thousands who perished under awful conditions. There also one can see markers indicating the extent of grounds once covered by the rotting hell that was the prison camp. A small, granite building covers the only, and inadequate, source of water, which served the teeming crowds that once swarmed over the now silent, green hills. Nearby, the Park Service has rebuilt the main gate to the prison. At another corner of the prison's one-time wooden wall, the Service has reconstructed that wall, with its guard tower; below the wall are recreations of prisoner "accommodations" (i.e., ragged tents). Nearby is the relatively new, National Prisoner of War Museum, which, while not focused on the Civil War alone, has become a major attraction in its own right.

On March 14, the Park will be alive with re-enactors, performing living history of life at the prison. Visitors will be able to witness vignettes portraying new prisoners arriving at the prison; the issue of pitiful rations; escape and punishment of a prisoner; and a brutal attack by infamous "Raiders." A highlight is an evening, candle-lantern tour of the park, which will be an unforgettable lesson in history, but is not recommended for younger children, who might disrupt the hoped-for emotions and thoughts of adults. The presentations run for the weekend and are free to the public.

Not to be outdone by the Park, the town stages a wonderful fair, on the first weekend in each October. For a most-reasonable admission fee, visitors watch gunfights in the streets, colorful parades and military ceremonies, and stroll through woods in which has been recreated a pioneer village of the times. Restfully shaded, rolling hills are dotted with educational exhibits (e.g., working blacksmith and potter), along with irresistible snack-foods, and crafts creations you just must have. Woodsy stages offer appropriate country music and dance. At the bottom of the hill, you'll be able to visit an encampment of Civil War soldiers (some with families), which is realistically set up along a winding creek. To top off each day, you'll thrill to a noisy recreation of a typical, Civil War battle, complete with belching artillery, some mounted cavalry, and even a blood-spattered field hospital. If you're lucky, you may find space to get inside a tiny log-cabin chapel, where a re-enactor, portraying a Confederate officer may be repeating his marriage vows to his appropriately costumed wife.

The little, one-block-long main street of Andersonville offers visitors a museum and welcome center in the depot, next to tracks where Union prisoners detrained upon arrival at the prison. Across the street, there's a unique museum of Civil War diorama displays, along with authentic memorabilia. That Little Drummer Boy Museum has been authoritatively called "The best such under one roof in the U.S." The block-long street is dominated by a controversial statue of the hanged prison commandant. Periodic local dramatizations of his trial serve to remind us that very little is black and white in the heat of war. Was Wirz a scapegoat, a victim of circumstances beyond his control, or a cruel, heartless martinet? You may have trouble deciding.

A visit to Andersonville is not just a trip back to the time of the Civil War. Tt is an opening to the larger questions of wars, rules thereof, and morality. It could be one of the most important vacation trips you'll ever take.

gies of the folks in Andersonville, the historic site has become a major tourist attraction. The Park includes rolling acres of similar gravestones, testifying silently to the thousands that perished under awful conditions. There also one can see markers indicating the extent of grounds once covered by the rotting hell that was the prison camp. A small, granite building covers the only, and inadequate, source of water, which served the teeming crowds that once swarmed over the now silent, green hills. Nearby, the Park Service has rebuilt the main gate to the prison. At another corner of the prison's one-time wooden wall, the Service has reconstructed that wall, with its guard tower; below the wall are recreations of prisoner "accommodations" (i.e., ragged tents). Nearby is the relatively new, National Prisoner of War Museum, which, while not focused on the Civil War alone, has become a major attraction in its own right.

On March 14{+t}{+h}, the Park will be alive with re-enactors, performing living history of life at the prison. Visitors will be able to witness vignettes portraying new prisoners arriving at the prison; the issue of pitiful rations; escape and punishment of a prisoner; and a brutal attack by infamous "Raiders." A highlight is an evening, candle-lantern tour of the park, which will be an unforgettable lesson in history, but is not recommended for younger children, whom might disrupt the hoped-for emotions and thoughts of adults. The presentations run for the two-day weekend, and are free to the public.

Not to be outdone by the Park, the town stages a wonderful fair, on the first weekend in each October. For a most-reasonable admission fee, visitors watch gunfights in the streets, colorful parades and military ceremonies, and stroll through woods in which has been recreated a pioneer village of the times. Restfully shaded, rolling hills are dotted with educational exhibits (e.g., working blacksmith and potter), along with irresistible snack-foods, and crafts creations you just must have. Woodsy stages offer appropriate country music and dance. At the bottom of the hill, you'll be able to visit an encampment of Civil War soldiers (some with families), which is realistically set up along a winding creek. To top off each day, you'll thrill to a noisy recreation of a typical, Civil War battle, complete with belching artillery, some mounted cavalry, and even a blood-spattered field hospital. If you're lucky, you may find space to get inside a tiny log-cabin chapel, where a re-enactor, portraying a Confederate officer, may be repeating his marriage vows to his appropriately costumed wife.

The little, one-block-long main street of Andersonville offers visitors a museum and welcome center in the depot, next to tracks where Union prisoners detrained upon arrival at the prison. Across the street, there's a unique museum of Civil War diorama displays, along with authentic memorabilia. That Little Drummer Boy Museum has been authoritatively called "The best such under one roof in the U.S." The block-long street is dominated by a controversial statue of the hanged prison commandant. Periodic local dramatizations of his trial serve to remind us that very little is black and white in the heat of war. Was Wirz a scapegoat, a victim of circumstances beyond his control, or a cruel, heartless martinet? You may have trouble deciding.

A visit to Andersonville is not just a trip back to the time of the Civil War: it is an opening to the larger questions of wars, rules thereof, and morality. It could be one of the most important vacation trips you'll ever take.

When you go:

Getting there: Andersonville is located on Hwy. 49, in southwest Georgia; about 25 miles due west of I-75, and some 335 miles from Central Florida.

When to go: Spring and autumn are the more enjoyable times: winters can be quite chilly; summers hot and humid. The wonderful Living History program will be held, this year, on March 14 and 15; exhibits begin at 10 a.m., and continue through the evening's candle-lantern experience (make advance reservations by calling 229-924-0343; go to www.angelfire.com/ga2/Andersonvilleprison/Marcheve... for more information. The annual Fair is staged on the first weekend in October; a small entry fee is charged.

Where to stay: There's one B&B right in the tiny village of Andersonville (call 229-824-7252). There's another B&B in nearby Plains (call 229-824-7252), where you'll also find enjoyable rooms in the Plains Historic Inn ( www.plainsinn.net or call 228-824-4517). In Americus, the most interesting place to stay is the renovated, historic, Windsor Hotel (229-924-1555. There also are several motels in Americus, including a Holiday Inn Express (call 229-928-5400).

Other area attractions: Habitat for Humanity, in Americus, offers an informative look at their great work in providing decent housing for some of the poorest persons around the world. Jimmie Carter's Plains is where you'll find his boyhood home, present dwelling, the famous railroad depot, which was his campaign headquarters, and what's left of brother Billy's, briefly famous, gas station.

When you go:

Getting there: Andersonville is located on Hwy 49, in southwest Georgia; about 25 miles due west of I-75, and some 335 miles from Central Florida.

When to go: Spring and autumn are the more enjoyable times: winters can be quite chilly; summers hot and humid. The wonderful Living History program will be held, this year, on March 14{+t}{+h} and 15{+t}{+h}; exhibits begin at 10:00, and continue through the evening's candle-lantern experience (make advance reservations by calling 229/924-0343; go to http://www.angelfire.com/ga2/Andersonvilleprison/M... for more information. The annual Fair is staged on the first weekend in October; a small entry fee is charged.

Where to stay: There's one B&B right in the tiny village of Andersonville (Tel 229/824-7252). There's another B&B in nearby Plains (Tel 229/824-7252), where you'll also find enjoyable rooms in the Plains Historic Inn ( www.plainsinn.net, or Tel 228/824-4517). In Americus, the most interesting place to stay is the renovated, historic, Windsor Hotel (Tel 229/924-1555. There also are several motels in Americus, including a Holiday Inn Express (Tel 229/928-5400).

Other area attractions: Habitat for Humanity, in Americus, offers an informative look at their great work in providing decent housing for some of the poorest persons around the world. Jimmie Carter's Plains is where you'll find his boyhood home, present dwelling, the famous railroad depot, which was his campaign headquarters, and what's left of brother Billy's, briefly famous, gas station.

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