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Hernando Today

Shade-loving Ferns Can Grow Under Tree Canopy

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By STEVE JONES

Hernando Today columnist

Published: February 1, 2009

QUESTION: "I have about 2000 square feet that gets morning sun. It's all clay, rocks,and redwood roots.We did a water test and it took one gallon of water over 12 hours to drain. We dug another hole on the other side of the area (most shady side) about 18" deep and hit water. They area is bare other than two 25 year old redwoods. I was going to plant a variety of ferns near the redwoods but unsure if there are some varieties that are hardier than others against the redwood roots.

"I also needsomething that will give us coverage along the street which is in front of the redwoods. Preferably something that is a fast grower, gets to about 12-15 feet and is evergreen.

"Someone suggested a variety of cryptomeria (sekka sukia) thatI can't seem to find info on anywhere. What I could findon all the other varieties leads me to believe that they do not like their feet to be wet and who knows aboutthe clay soil. They are inthe ground now but I am certain they'll die.

"I am hoping you can give me somesuggestions." - Anni Matthews

ANSWER: Sometimes, landscaping is a matter of trial and error. As long as there is enough shade underneath the canopy of the redwood trees, then you shouldn't have much of a problem getting ferns to grow there.

Of course, you will need to dig a good size hole and put in good rich organic matter (compost and/or aged manure mix) for them.

Cryptomeria should be able to tolerate wetter spots than some plants. I believe you are thinking of Cryptomeria japonica 'Sekkan Sugi'. They grow about 12 inches per year, but can reach a mature height of 35 feet or more with a width of about 10 feet.

Omce you have them planted, concentrate on keeping them alive. A good layer of mulch (preferably aged compost or aged manure mix) around the bases of the cryptomeria plants will go a long way to helping them. The mulch will decompose into the rocky ground gradually helping to build it into good healthy soil.

It will take a few years of adding mulch regularly, at least during each spring. Mound the mulch around the base of each plant leaving a welled area at the immediate base of the plant of roughly 4 inches from the trunk creating a doughnut look. The mounding will help to divert any rain water away from the plants and the doughnut at the base allows for watering (if necessary) and air circulation. Good luck!

Last spring, we received the following e-mail:

QUESTION: "I bought 3 Crape Myrtles (pink velours) but while bringing the plants to their resting place, one of them fell and snapped off about 3 inches above the roots. I planted it anyway, but can I expect it to survive?" - Roger Sacilotto

ANSWER: Yes, it should leaf out and grow just like the other crape myrtles. It may catch up and pass the other guys over the next year or two. Remember, you will be pruning them back (about 1/3 as younger plants) in early spring before they begin any leafing. They produce the biggest and prettiest blooms on the new season's growth. Don't fertilize them the first year out. Wait for them to leaf out over the second year if you generally apply a neutral fertilizer. Good aged compost or aged manure mixes are excellent ways to build the nutrients in the soil without worrying about fertilizer.

A couple of weeks ago, we heard from Roger again:

QUESTION: "I thought this would be an opportune time to reply to your email, since it's close to pruning time. The three crape myrtles are all the same size, about 20 inches tall. You were correct, the plant that broke off a couple of inches above the ground caught up withits siblings. Should I prune them back about 7 inches in early March?" - Roger

ANSWER: Until the plants are about 3 or so years old, I would keep their pruning limited to broken tips or damaged branches. Once they have a few years of growth on them, they respond better to such pruning. Here's a link to a great article on growing crape myrtles, including pruning and fertilizing. You might keep it on hand for future reference. http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/L331.htm

Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve's free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org.

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