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Hernando Today

Natchitoches, Louisiana

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By J.G. NASH

Hernando Today correspondent

Published: May 2, 2008

It took me two days to begin to pronounce the name correctly. It looked to me like "Notch-ih-toh-shehs," but the locals only laughed at that awkward attempt. To be accepted, one must say, "Kneck'-a-tish." It's worth the effort to say it correctly: Natchitoches is one of this great nation's relatively undiscovered gems. If you're ever in the vicinity, don't miss it.

I first heard about the historic city from a pretty red-haired representative of the Alexandria, Louisiana Convention & Visitors Bureau, whom I met, quite by chance, during a five-star lunch, in a great, Daytona Beach restaurant, in Florida. She simply mentioned that I'd love Natchitoches, because "it has lots of historic old buildings, and was the first city established in the entire Louisiana Purchase." Because of her, I planned, and soon carried out, a three-week visit to that part of Louisiana. She was right about Kneck-a-tish!

Right at the outset, it's interesting to know that, in 2004, First Lady Laura Bush named little Natchitoches as one of only two, Preserve America communities in Louisiana. The next year, the National Trust for Historic Preservation honored the city as one of a Dozen Distinctive Destinations in the U.S.: the only such site ever selected in Louisiana. And as though that wasn't enough, Natchitoches has repeatedly been named as one of the top retirement destinations in our nation.

OK, we've set a rather extraordinary stage, let's look now at the actors. The city itself nestles up to the Cane River Lake (which looks like a river, and was one before a log jam turned the Red River away). It's a beautiful, historical city, filled with lovely old buildings: irresistible shops on the waterfront street, along with charming B&Bs that are seemingly everywhere. Laid back, restful, and charming are words that come to mind. Even in high season, the relative swarm of tourists isn't at all objectionable.

Fort St. Jean Baptiste sits on the river bank, just south of the city. It's an accurate replica of the fort that is believed to have existed nearby, in the 18th Century. There's an informative museum at the entrance, but most visitors are anxious to get to the fort, which is reached following a wooded walk along the river. Once there, you'll meet costumed guides who are happy to show you through the French fort. They may, enroute, even fire a flintlock musket, or touch off a cannon. It's a great experience for all visitors, regardless of age.

The Cane River National Historic Area follows the river (lake) southeast for about 35 miles. That 116,000-acre area is largely a rural, agricultural landscape, characterized by historic Creole architecture, and the influence of that interesting ethnic group. Within its boundaries are National Historic Landmark sites, former military forts, old churches, and historic plantations. Let's quickly visit just a handful of those.

County Road 494, and later 119, takes us through the heart of the Heritage Area. The first place that caused me to stop for a photo was the main house of the 1830 Oaklawn Plantation. It's privately owned, so we couldn't even drive up the long, oak allee leading to the house, but the view along that tunnel of Live Oaks is great. I wish that it might have been possible to visit, because I was told that the interior of that beautiful house was used for some unforgettable scenes in that wonderful John Wayne classic, The Horse Soldiers.

The Oakland Plantation, which is open to the public, was said to be "the most complete Creole Plantation in this nation." The 1833 Plantation House and many of the 17 original outbuildings were built by slaves. Our personable and knowledgeable guide (Jean Carter) was eager and able to bring the buildings to life, as we strolled their historic corridors. As we stood on the front porch of the main house, looking out through another of those "oak allees," which have come to stand for the gracious era of the old South, I saw a wedding photographer attempting to make images of a bride-to-be. There was chilly breeze blowing in off the lake, so just seeing the bride, in her shoulderless gown, gave me goose flesh. Jean interrupted my attempts to photograph the wedding photographer, by pointing out that, "It was right through those old trees that John Wayne rode when arriving at the Southern mansion (Oaklawn) featured in The Horse Soldiers.

Melrose Plantation was a highlight of our day in the Park. The fascinating history of the plantation begins, towards the end of the 18th Century, when a freed slave, Marie Therese Coincoin received a grant of the lands, with Melrose being recorded in the name of her son Louis. Their descendants still live along the river; justifiably proud of themselves and their heritage. The grounds feature nine preserved/restored buildings, including the Big House, with its typical, elevated, Creole architecture; the 1796 Yucca House (the original main house of the plantation), which was subsequently used as accommodations for many artists and writers that later became well known; and the 1880 African House, which is more black African in style than Creole, and was once used as a sort of jail for "difficult" slaves.

Yes, artists and authors, such as Alexander Woolcott and Erskine Caldwell, once made Melrose their destination when they needed to find a place in which to concentrate on their work. They were invited there, starting about the turn of the century, by Cammie Garrett Henry, whose family were then the owners of the plantation.

While the African House sounds a bit grim, it is today a magnet for art aficionados, which flock there to admire the folk art of Clementine Hunter, whom spent most of her life at Melrose: first as a field hand, then as a cook, finally working on her popular paintings. By the 1940s, Clementine had been recognized as the state's most celebrated, primitive artist.

For anyone interested in early history of the U.S.— especially of Louisiana and its Creoles — a couple of days spent in exploring the Cane River National Heritage Area, while enjoying evenings back in charming Natchitoches, is just the ticket. You may even decide to move there.

J.G. Nash has been writing about travel since 1976. His articles, and photographs, have been featured in some 125 different publications. He welcomes comments to john@have-eye.com

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